Beauty Ingredients You Should Avoid?

 

When you look at the back of that cleanser, the list of ingredients can be a little daunting. Long words you can't pronounce and even numbers start to swarm around your head...and then you see it...that ingredient. Didn't your cousin's best friend's sister tell you that that ingredient could give you cancer?! This situation is all too common. All of the beauty editors in magazines and talk shows want to make interesting beauty segments and "expose" the big bad cosmetics companies. Then your skin therapist or dermatologist prescribes it to you, so what is the deal? This is a situation in which we want to focus on something called TOXICITY reports.

There has been a boom in guests who experience some sort of sensitivity of the skin in our esthetician's and dermatologists offices. Determining what causes the sensitivities are our jobs as professionals but what's becoming a more common variable are the types of ingredients being used in people's every day products. In these situations, we are going to be looking for IRRITATION/ALLERGY reports or even if there are any PRECAUTIONARY instructions included with the products being used.

Finally, you are thrown all of these "super star" ingredients. Everyone jumps on the bandwagon! You stockpile your drawers and practically buy stock in the company that produces products containing them. However, a study comes out a month or two later saying that there was no scientific evidence that supports that it does stack up to it's claims.  This would fall into reports regarding INEFFECTIVENESS.

So these are the points you want to look for when you're choosing skincare, cosmetic products, etc.

• Toxicity
• Irritant
• Precautionary
• Ineffective 

Toxicity warnings can tell you the degree to which something is poisonous. Studies carried out can be using a certain percentage of ingredient, over a certain time. The question on whether how these studies are carried out could affect the results.
Irritant warnings report substances that can cause inflammation or other discomfort in the body. This may be for a select few, may not include all consumers.
Precautionary warnings are going to be instructions to be followed while using products.
And ineffective reports reveal that ingredients or products do not produce significant or desired results.

Unfortunately, you have to do your own research or understand where the advice is coming from. It's kind of like saying this big TV personality swears up and down on this diet and low and behold...they announce they have a book deal about the diet or are the face of the company who facilitates it! Or the newest and greatest supplement that has been "discovered" which we so conveniently carry in our store! Haha! It's good to have resources but just make sure you have don't have rose-colored glasses on.

Here's an example of one of the lists that I've stumbed on: (bold is cited from Dr. Oz, italicized is my commentary)

• Fragrances (irritant, can cause inflammation and sensitivities in the skin)
• Imidazolidinyl urea and diazolidinyl urea (possible toxicity challenge- preservative that is formaldehyde-releasing, although not a large amount- suggested not to be used on infant. Dr. Oz says can alter the DNA of cells. )
• Sodium lauryl sulfate (surfactant or detergent, used largely in skin cleansers/shampoos. Considered to be an irritant SAID to cause cancer but NO link has been cited)
• Mineral oil *(precautionary, it can't be used in conjunction with a comedogenic product or it will trap said product in the pores. Otherwise, there's no data saying that it clogs pores.)
• MEA (monoethanolamine) & TEA (triethanolamine) (there are some studies that show levels of toxicity although deemed safe by the DEA, normally used as pH adjusters in products)
• DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol ) (possible ineffective/could be damaging,  skin firming antioxidant. In the book, Dr. Oz states that it causes 'cell damage and swelling' and that it's temporary. In in vitro studies, it's said could cause celltoxicity)

says Dr. Mehmet C. Oz, M.D. (aka Dr. Oz) referenced from his book YOU: Being Beautiful (2008)

Obviously, this was a little while ago.  (Now Dr. Oz has Dr. Perricone PROMOTING DMAE, funny huh?) I've done my research on all of the ingredients listed. I've done the Cosmetic Cop (Paula Begeoun) and I've done my Futurederm.com. I finally went to my EWG website! This last website is amazing! It's brought to you by the Environmental Working Group and this organization thoroughly inspects ingredients and products and "grades" them on their potential hazards to consumers that use them. 0-2 being low hazard, 3-6 moderate hazard, and 7-10 high hazard. Check it out :http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/

In my research, other ingredients said to be avoided are displayed in this infograph (click to enlarge)

Here are also some more links should you be the avid researcher as I am!
http://www.madefromearth.com/content/harmful-ingredients-skincare-products.html
http://www.futurederm.com/2007/12/21/is-mineral-oil-really-bad-for-your-skin/
http://www.rebootwithjoe.com/9-skin-care-ingredients-to-avoid/


One thing I've learned while researching these ingredients and the millions that are claimed that you should leave out of your regimen- YOU make your exducated decisions. Just like I stated in the my organic skin care post, you can make the decision on what you put onto/into your body. Whether you want to go on what side of the spectrum or only avoid certain things...that's your choice. Just know what the claims are and where they come from. That being said...I think I might rethink what a particular Dr. on TV says...what about you?

 

Is Your Skin Care Regimen the Problem? Part Dos

I know we've all been on pins and needles...but no worries!

So about exfoliants-

These little boogers, if not used correctly, can cause some damage. There are two types of exfoliating ingredients- chemical and physical. Let me just make a note by saying that people LOVE their exfoliants, so much so that they use them every day. This is a problem. The most commonly used exfoliant used is a the physical scrub...to be specific it's a "fruit seed scrub" (name was concealed for those who might inbox me hate mail should I specifically name it) . (Using any type of product where you can physically feel scrubbing is considered a physical exfoliant) You are only meant to use a physical exfoliant one to two times a week. So you could be doing damage to your skin if you are overdoing it. Using it more than the designated time could compromise your barrier and allow dirt and debris to penetrate deeper AND allow moisture to escape PLUS cause sensitivities. Even then, I would only use a physical exfoliant if you are normal to oily skin. Dry skin could handle it but too dry could allow micro-incisions to worsen and take longer to heal. For oily skin types chemical exfoliants are fine but I would steer more towards a salicylic acid because it's a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) and therefore is OIL-LOVING, meaning it's attracted to oil.

If you're a dry or sensitive skin type, chemical exfoliation might be more your style. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are considered chemical exfoliants because they dissolve the glue that holds keratin (aka skin cells)  together. Once they are dissolved then skin cells can slough off. AHAs are WATER-LOVING meaning that they attract water and one of the common AHAs, lactic acid actually helps bind moisture to the skin. I can go on and on about these acids but I think that's going to be saved for another post.

Another alternative would be enzymes. Enzymes found in papaya and pineapple, for example, will actually "eat" superficial dead skin cells. This is going to be the best for sensitive skin types and for those who are contraindicated to other types of exfoliants.

Masks..dun dun dunnnnn!

These are the products most associated to your beauty and skin care regimens. When you see a chick flick, what's the most common night ritual you see them have? A bright green mask with cucumbers over their eyes. Ultimately, masks are customizable as well but you definately want to choose which one you use based on your skin type and possible challenges you might have. Clay and mud masks are setting masks. They dry and when you smile it cracks. This is what all setting masks do. Clay and mud masks are for detoxifying the skin and pulling out impurities from the skin. That being said, oily and acneic skin would benefit more from these types of masks. Non-setting masks are masks that do not harden and stay moist. These have different ingredients but are usually meant for my dry, aging, and prematurely aging skin because they are the types that need more moisture/hydration delivered into the skin. And what were the cucumbers for? They have anti-inflammatory properties that help reduce puffy eyes and are very soothing.

This is looking more and more like it's going to have to be a trilogy post...oh well! The last three products coming up next!

Is Your Skin Care Regimen the Problem? Part One

I have many clients coming in to the school who literally respond to every question in their consultation that they want fix something they don't like about their skin. I can recommend all the services that would best suit their skin types and conditions. I can act like CSI and give recommendations on what could be causing them so much despair. However, without an upstanding skincare regimen- results will not be in your future. Results are 30% services and 70% products used at home. So, what do you need in your repitoir?
here are some products that will keep your skin and check:
- 2 cleansers
- exfoliant
- mask
- a toner, a freshener, or an astringent
- moisturizer
- spf
if you have challenges with your skin then serum, ampules, and spot treatments will also benefit you.

Types of Products
Now of course, if you are an expert about your skin type then you understand that all products are not meant for everybody. If you aren't one of those people then you might not even know where to start! There are types of products meant to suit certain skin types and possible conditions. "Well duh!," you might be saying to the screen but did you also know that the order of your products can affect your skin as well? Of course, ingredients are the superstars of the products but if you don't know a lot about them, it could not be beneficial. Knowing the basis will help.
So let's start from the beginning..
Cleansers
Two cleansers are required to get the cleanse that you need. The first cleanse is meant to to remove the makeup, dirt, debris and it best to use an oil-based cleanser. Oil attracts oil and so it will help remove those oil based makeup products and even those "long wear" liners, colors, etc. Even if you are oily, it will help draw oil to the surface to be wicked away. The second cleanser is used to focus on balancing your skin type or addressing your skin conditions. This may seem simple enough, but guess what? Each skin type that has specific needs in a cleanser!  You might see some cleanser that are gels, milky, or even a thick lotion consistency. That's what I'm talkin' about!
Normal to Oily are going to benefit more from gels because they will provide a good cleanse without stripping the oil of your face altogether. You don't want to remove all of the oil from the skin (that's a whole new post I'll get to).
Milky cleansers are thicker and more hydrating-suitable for dry, premature aging, and mature skin types. Dry skin needs more moisture and so the thicker product ensures more delivery of such.
Finally lotions are best for sensitive skin types because they are very hydrating but can be removed even without water. Yes, some people are so sensitive that water irritates the skin.
So if you are using something that isn't doing your regimen justice...talk to your local esthetician :) Or investigate your skin type and products. Next post, I will go over some of the other products!