That Little Problem Called Pigmentation

You may be a victim already and don't even know it....or maybe it's something that has made you conscientious for a while. I'm referring to, of course, the pigmentation problem.
To be more direct, it might be areas of your skin that are darker than the rest. AKA "sunspots", "age spots", and sometimes "freckles". In the biz it's called hyperpigmentation. If you are a nerd like me...the prefix "hyper-" meaning excess and "-pigmentation" for color. Hyperpigmentation is an overproduction of melanin created by the skin cells. And another disorder related to pigmentation is hypopigmentation or "lack of color". These patches that are lighter than the rest of your skin or that contain no melanin. Hyperpigmentation can be treated where as hypopigmentation has no cure and can only be changed with permanent cosmetics. So being forward focused, let's talk about what we can do to prevent and treat!

Why ME?!

Well, hyperpigmentation can occur for many different reasons- horomones, trauma, chemical reactions. These factors cannot cause pigmentation without one thing...UV rays. It's kind of like the factors are the ingredients for a cupcake, but we all know that the ingredients combined aren't a cupcake until they are baked in the oven. UV is our oven people! 
Let's break it down a bit-
Horomones can cause our skin to be more sensitive and to be more vulnerable to the sun. That's why a condition called "Melasma" occurs with pregnant women. Also, when we are stressed, a horomone is secreted that also can cause us damage. So when we've had a hard week...no wonder we feel like we got drug through the wringer! Medications can alter our horomones as well, so that's why women who are on birth control experience very similar results.
Trauma to the skin is a factor that most people know about. Think about it, when you had that pesky breakout and you picked at it or even tried to it "pop it". After a couple weeks, when that breakout was gone you still saw a residual "shadow"- that's hyperpigmentation. That angry little thing was inflamed and inflammation is an indicator of damage. Where damage is present there is a compromised barrier that allows things to penetrate deeper, especially UV.
Chemical Reactions car range from just spraying perfume on your décolleté to recently receiving a chemical peel. Perfume dries out the skin because of the alcohols and weaken the skin. Think about when we age, what skin is one of the first to show our age? Our hands and our chest because of all the sun exposure. And chemical peels or resurfacing treatments exfoliate the skin and re
move cells. Two things can happen, because skin cells are removed then this can allow UV to damage cells and their DNA. Also, should you have had the peel recently, the heat can reactivate the acid to penetrate too deep which can cause trauma to the cells. Double edged sword right there.

UV stimulates the brain to secrete a melanin-stimulating horomone that tells a melanocyte (a cell that creates melanin, the pigment) to create more melanin to be sent to the skin cells that are in the "line of fire". The melanin is then sent to the 36 cells that are designated to that 1 melanocyte. Once the skin cells receive the pigment it surrounds the nucleus to act as a bodyguard and protect it from damage. So, this is actually one of the body's defense mechanisms against excessive sun exposure. That's what happens when you tan also. However, because of factors outside of our control, some cells receive too much of that melanin and that's when hyperpigmentation begins to haunt us!

Hypopigmentation can be caused by these factors as well if they are killed or destroy the DNA of the cell. Vitiligo is a disorder where the melanocytes (cells that create melanin) are damaged . Some hypopigmentation can be genetics ( an example would be albinoism) Wanna know more? Check this out!

What do I do to help?!

If you've never gotten to experience a Wood's Lamp or Skin Scanner, do it! Talk to your local esthetician or skin care professional. This is a device that can actually show you conditions your skin is experiencing. It can also show you hyperpigmentation that hasn't reached the surface yet. If you see a faint brown or light purple spot...by the age of 50, if you don't take any measures to speed up cell turnover, that hyperpigmentation caused by the sun will make it's way to the surface of your face.
 The goal to treat the pigmentation is to encourage cell turnover so that more cells are reproduced and pushes the cells that contain that extra melanin to the surface so that they can be exfoliated off or treated with vitamin C or other lightening/brightening ingredients (kojic berry, licorice for example). Treatments that would encourage cell turnover- microdermabrasion, chemical peels, exfoliating treatments/products, any services that stimulate blood circulation are ideal. But make sure before you jump into a treatment bed that you understand what you are getting yourself into! Not all are suited for these types of treatments. Again, talk with your skin therapist on the right path for you.

Only you can prevent pigmentation...

Obviously the common denominator behind pigmentation are UV rays given off by the sun so preventative measures includes building up your barrier and protecting with sunscreen! To read more about sunscreens and the new regulations check out my sunscreen post. So if you are being conscientious of these factors and taking the steps to protect yourself from UV, then problem no more!

Bling Worth the Buck

All that glitters, is not gold. All products that say they are beneficial to the skin... sometimes are not.
I have a student who is a researcher,like myself, who brought me an article she read. It was about the newest "trend" in skincare. Actually it is big in the UK and is making a move this way. Which fad? Well,products that contain black diamonds. There has also actually been an influx in gold and gemstones too.

Oh You Fancy Huh?
More and more product lines are adding these pricey ingredients to their regimens. Many companies are claiming that when used, these products are slowing down the aging process and helping diminish fine lines and wrinkles. However, medical professionals are calling the bluff!

Diamonds Are A Girl's Best Friend

The article that my student brought was about black diamonds and it's introduction into high-end products. This is about a serum in this particular case. While the article stated it was a skin care cosmetic, another article stated that the diamonds are not absorbed (well duh) but sit on the surface of the skin on top of dead cells.  In essence,they reflect light causing a "glowy" appearance. Said to be almost like airbrush makeup and diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This does not count as a treatment. As an exfoliant, I could see the benefit purely as a physical exfoliant but otherwise it's glorified claim.

Striking Gold?
 More like striking out

In many countries you will hear and see about the serum infused with gold or the mask with a type of liquified gold. The retail products may even have gold flakes suspended in them! Claims of antioxidant properties, healing, and revitalizing of the skin are all being thrown at consumers. When in fact, no scientific research has been found to back up all of these juicy sell points. In the late 1930's good was injected into patients suffering from rheumatoid arthritis and was said the reduce inflammation. It is not a common treatment anymore due to the many  adverse affects ranging from rashes to renal failure. Some Dermatologists even claim that copious amounts of gold on the skin can be toxic and can cause  contact dermatitis ( a rash caused by coming into contact with a substance).

It just goes to prove that you have to understand what you are putting onto your skin and in your body. While many seek these ingredients for alternative therapies (hint hint, click there) , which we will discuss later, the medical professionals disarm claims of miraculous skin changes.

Is Your Skin Care Regimen the Problem? FINALE

Toners, Fresheners, Astringent…oh my!

Toners are valuable to all skin types and one of the most forgotten steps in many regimens. Toners are meant to help remove excess product that may be on the surface of the skin. Also, they are used to help balance the pH of the skin. It is important for the skin’s functions to have the skin’s pH maintained at 4.5-5.5. But more on that later…

Fresheners are very beneficial to dry, prematurely aging, and aging skin. Fresheners do just that…freshen the skin. Delivering hydration to the skin and in return, helping strengthen the skin. 

Astringents are going to be best suited for oily skin types. Really, for excess oil production. Astringents will help remove the excess oil and dry the skin to allow other products to penetrate deeper into the layers of the skin. So this would be beneficial who have acneic skin too, however would not be great for dry skin types. Even those who experience a little oil, it may be too much for. 

Moisturizers and Your Skin

Moisturizers are important for every skin type. Oily skin types may try to avoid it but they really do need it. All skin types can experience dehydration (lack of water) and so finding the right product is important. The more oil your skin produces, the lighter the moisturizer you are going to need…and vice versa, the drier the skin the thicker the moisturizer needs to be. 

Whew! And finally! The regimen list is completed!

Questions? Comments? Concerns? 

I'm itching to write a research post on this product line that my class just experienced...so prepare yourselves, it's a doozy.

Professional Vs...Not.

Can you remember the last time that you were so sick that you had to go to the doctor?

The last time I had gone to the doctor, I had a sinus infection that I could not shake. It was miserable, not matter how many Tylenols I popped for the pain- it was bothering me. So, I had to gather all my energy and finally make an appointment. When I went in I waited about 45 minutes in the waiting area, got called back and sat in a very bare room, waited another 15 min for a nurse to come fill out my chart, nurse left and another 10 minutes passed until I saw my doctor. He asked me a few ho-hum questions and scribbled on a little tablet. And there it was...the answer to all my problems...a prescription to feel better! TADA!

No imagine that you are suffering from something a little less dramatic...sort of. Working in a spa, I've had many people present me with challenge after challenge. " I want to look 20 years younger. I want to clear up my skin. I want to get rid of the unwanted spots.." While I can do my darndest while you are on my table results come from 30% treatment and 70% at home care. Which means I will have to PRESCRIBE you product for maintenance and to look better! Think of your skin care professional as a doctor and their prescription as their take-home recommendations...if you want to see a change, you have to follow instruction. Not only that but if you're wanting to "get better", professional skin care products are going to do the job better than what you can get in the aisle of your convenience store (oh hey, kind of like your medication when you're sick!).


How can you tell the difference?
The difference between Over the Counter (OTC) and professional products are that professional products are sold at establishments in which a licensed esthetician or medical practitioner are located.  For you to be able to get the results you need and to get clear instruction it has to be so! Professional products have a higher amount and quality of ingredients designated for balancing out the skin and/or treating skin conditions. A lot of these professional products contain ingredients that could do some damage if not used correctly. OTC products can be sold by anyone, usually aren't recommended based on YOUR needs only what you think your needs are, and in the end can cost you more money for the results you want. Used correctly, your professional products will cost you less and with quicker results than the OTC messes.

And that's just professional product...don't make me show you pictures of crazy people doing professional grade treatments at home...seriously. Would you inject yourself with a vaccine? Probably not. Something could go wrong! You aren't the expert! So leave it to those who are! Plus, I don't think giving yourself a massage feels as good as getting one by a professional.

So needless to say, I'm an advocate for your local esthetician. Need one? Check out Spa Finder for day spas and medspas in your area. Sign up with their newsletter and they'll even send you info on SPA WEEK which is an amazing event where a gazillion spas offer discounted services! Who could pass that up? Even if you don't have a challenge...atleast you could go in for a wellness "check up".

I'll get off my little soapbox now...but what would you guys like to know? I'm open to some questions! If you aren't up to posting a comment feel free to email me at soskinsmart@gmail.com. Let's hear it!