Back At It!

So after a long hiatus, I have taken a job as an esthetician at a wonderful salon & spa! While I will miss teaching, I'm excited for the new adventure. That also means I will have more time to update way more often! See, quite the plus! So stay tuned for some cool posts I'm working on but in the mean time if you have any skin questions--feel free to pick my brain! And if you are in the Dallas area, come see me! 

While you're at it you can like my Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/Monetskintreatments

Excited to get to reconnect with you all...much love!

Your Face Is the Thumbprint to Your Health

I get the best topics from my students, not only because they challenge me to no end but because they are thirsty to know. I was given permission to share a little of one of my lovely ladies' projects over Chinese Face Mapping. It's the art of diagnosing internal problems by taking into consideration the location of blemishes, lines, spots , and wrinkles in particular zones of the face. This practice is a part of a wider spectrum of alternative medicines & therapies called Traditional Chinese Medicine, also known as TCM. Facial Reading has been traced back to the 6th century and is based on the belief that our face is a thumbprint of our internal health.  It's very similar to Reflexology where the organs can be accessed through areas of the foot.  While we as skin therapists can't diagnose someone, this can give us the ability to educate our clients and help them take preventative measures.

So how is it done? Well the belief is that all of the organs are interdependent on one another and of course skin being the largest one. So each are grouped into certain categories that represent a circle of influence. The five categories are represented by five elements: fire, earth, metal, water, and wood.
The organs are represented in the graph. And you'll also notice that the green arrows corresponding to the other elements symbolize a connection. An example would be that the liver affects the heart (indicated by the green arrow) and if there is something wrong with the heart it can be reflected by the nose (shown by the smaller colored arrows).  Again, all the organs have connections. When one is challenged, it's affects others, and is represented through others also.

I want to give a specific shoutout to my very brilliant student, Amy Ford for the following information! I got permission to use it and since it's right on the money, I thought I'd share what each markings in each zone of the face could mean.



Forehead
The forehead is linked with the fire element.
The upper part of the forehead is associated with the bladder, the middle with stomach digestion, and the lower with the small intestine. Sensitivity on the middle of the forehead, for example, could relate to poor diet and sluggish digestion, which may be a result of eating too late at night. If there is irritated, red skin on the top of the forehead, it could relate to poor urination or a bladder infection. Spots and lines on the forehead point to congestion from too much oily food or dairy. After a heavy meal that is stressful on your digestion (meat, dairy, bread, pasta, grains, and poor food combining or overeating) or a stressful day, lines on the forehead can appear more pronounced

Nose
Your nose corresponds to the earth element, indicating a connection to the stomach, spleen and pancreas network. Symptoms of internal discord typically show up as a pimple on the tip or side of your nose. Broken capillaries or redness across the bridge of the nose could reveal alcohol abuse, or it may simply mean excessive worry and stress, which taxes your earth element network.
Redness, puffiness and breakouts around the nostrils and lower cheek indicate too many dairy products, which produce mucus and congestion in the lungs. You may be on the verge of a bronchial infection if this area suddenly becomes red and dry.

Chin
The chin area is related to the water element, which is internally associated to your kidney and bladder organ network, including the hormonal system and glands. Blemishes, discoloration and dark patches of skin around the chin and mouth could indicate problems within the kidneys or bladder. Recurrent acne breakouts around your chin may signify a hormonal imbalance. You may notice that the breakouts occur on opposite sides of the chin each month in unison with the particular ovary that happens to be ovulating. The problem is most often due to the body producing excess estrogen or testosterone and tends to be coupled with irregular menstruation in women and prostate symptoms in men.

The middle of the chin, however, relates to the elimination process of the bowel. If you have a breakout or irritation there, this would suggest a current imbalance, whereas those people with a permanent dimple may have a hereditary weakness in this area. If the chin is red and swollen, it may mean that there is a structural weakness in the organs, candida or stuck energy in the abdomen.　

Eyes
In Chinese philosophy, the under-eye area relates to the kidney/liver area, which is the half moon-shaped area under the eye. Dark circles may indicate your elimination is weak. The darkness can reflect excess toxins and the need for a system cleanse, or simply that the body would benefit from more water to aid its functions. If the area is puffy and blue, you are working too hard, depleting your adrenals, eating too much rich food and causing an imbalance in the fluid balance of the body. However, if the area is dark brown and has a congested look, your liver is showing signs of "liver energy stagnation". This could mean that your liver is stressed, possibly through pent-up frustration or anger, or rich food and alcohol. If this indication is combined with one-sided headaches, jaw tension and two vertical lines between the eyebrows, you could find that fat and hormone metabolism is affected. If the two vertical lines from the end of the eyebrows are combined with two smaller hook-shaped lines, this means that the gall bladder is also showing stress.

Ears
Look at your ears, and if they are redder than the skin on your face, you are overworking your adrenal glands. 

Cheeks
The cheek zone relates to the lungs. If you notice changes on the hollowing of your cheeks, it could be a sign that you're not breathing properly. The cheeks can be red and irritated and may feel spongy to the touch if you tend to have sinus congestion, asthma, or live in a polluted area. Any of these symptoms may also mean there could be increased sensitivity to certain active skincare products, so patch testing and the minimalist approach are advisable.

If there are broken capillaries, this could be from stress of the lungs associated with smoking. Dehydration over the cheeks may be the result of a recent cold or reaction to cold, sinus and flu medication. If you have persistent breakouts across your lower cheeks, it may be because this area relates to the gums and back teeth. The breakouts in this area that can’t be explained otherwise may be caused by dental problems such as tooth decay, gum disease, gingivitis or perhaps irritated wisdom teeth. A trip to the dentist could be the solution.


People who are prone to respiratory allergies or asthma have a tendency to have a reddish, scaly eczema, a slight rash or slight bluish-green hue along the right cheek. This indicates too much heat or inflammation in the respiratory system, or a lack of oxygen from bronchial constriction.

Mouth
The mouth shows the energy of the stomach and intestines, and the lower part of the face relates to the lower abdomen.

The lips correspond to your intestines; swollen or red lips indicate inflammation and congestion in the digestive system, usually from overeating or poor food choices. 

Cracked, peeling and dry lips mean your system is dehydrated. You will notice dry lips also accompany constipation. This can be caused by eating a lot of dry food, such as bread, chips, crackers or salty foods. Dry lips also indicate that you are very low in healthy probiotics in your gut and that the ratio of good and bad bacteria in your system is out of balance. Cracking lips are also a sign of gastric stress, so this should be considered if you’ve been worried about something recently.

The top of your upper lip reveals how your stomach is functioning, and the bottom of the upper lip shows the condition of your small intestine. If the lower lip protrudes, this shows a sluggish colon. A yellow color around the mouth and lack of tone in the mouth indicate that the digestive energy is weak and a change of diet and enzymes are needed. On the other hand, a green color indicates that the liver is the prime cause of the problem.

This "treatment" is not as popular in Western medicine and so it's harder to find a specialist who performs treatments like Face Mapping. So with so few in practice, the legitimacy of the treatments haven't been scientifically proven. However, their is one specific study that correlates with Face Mapping in particular. Several prestigious Western medical journals, including American Journal of Cardiology, have reported a high correlation between a diagonal earlobe crease and coronary artery disease in people under age 70. So what's to say that if one study is correct that there isn't any connection with the rest!

So how else are estheticians using this information?
 Skincare professionals have utilized this practice and has even specified it to help clients understand the reason for their breakouts. This can also help your skin care professional customize your treatment and you with choosing the products you use! I've included a picture and graph for you to do your own reading. So if breakouts keep reoccurring in specific places, check it out. Again, this isn't a for sure diagnosis but could help point out what might be happening with your body.

Want to know more? Read on here.

You Put WHAT On Your Face?!

I love researching and learning about new things in the beauty and skin industry and sharing what I learned with my class. I have a lot of students who bring articles to me and we have open discussions on what they have heard or read about. Recently, an article was left on my desk that literally made me squirm. It's title? "Too Slimy? Live, crawling snails used in Japanese facials" on the TODAY website.

So, I can't summarize this article any more than what the title describes! Although, this was recently presented to the public it's actually something that's been happening for a while now. (Actually, TODAY may be running out of beauty material because they have reported something similar in 2011.) Slime from snails are actually being utilized in skincare and cosmetics in other continents but are making it's way to the U.S. What's the deal with the slugs right? It's being reported that these snail's trails contain glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants. All of these have been used to keep these creatures healthy and their skin intact while they make their way over rocks and under heavy flower pots and such. Glycolic helps with the cell reproduction and stimulating a healing response. Hyaluronic acid actually holds 1000 times it's weight in moisture and can help keep the skin hydrated and plump. Finally, antioxidants help fight free radicals and can combat aging. Wonderful ingredients present! However, these ingredients might be more pleasant in another medium and can be found elsewhere. But the experience itself would be interesting.

Within the article I read about a mention of a "Nightingale feces facial"! Okay, you got my attention. So I set to google and got educated. Thus the Geisha Facial was introduced to me. Apparently, this too is linked to Japan where the geisha's were having trouble with breakouts after wearing that thick, white foundation. Somehow, it was found out that the droppings of a type of Nightingale were the cure! What was the appeal? Well, the excrement is said to be packed with tons of fruit enzymes ( because of the diet of the bird) and allowed the benefits of dissolving dead skin cells, helping unclog pores, and softening and smoothing the skin.  It also said that urea is found in the droppings which, if left on the skin, can moisturize the skin. Who would want to keep it on though? This treatment has been made popular here in the US in New York. You can check out the Shizuka Spa website to get one! No worries, this debris has been sterilized by UV before being ground up into a powder. And hey, Posh Spice raves about it but these enzymes can be found in other venues.

I thought these were TOO interesting to pass up writing about, so has anyone ever heard of these before or had one of these treatments done? Or would you be interested?

Here's a link to some other odd spa/salon treatments.

Are there any other strange skin treatments you've heard of? Love to hear any you might have, email at soskinsmart@gmail.com ! I know my class would enjoy as would I.

Microderm MANIA!

 

I read an article from a beauty box subscription newsletter where Selma Hayek was being
interviewed. I can't say that she is my beauty icon but she had mentioned Microdermabrasion which is a service offered at my place of business. You can find it here. So as I was reading, I was

kind of in shock that she was making a dig at chemical peels and poor little microdermabrasion...she doesn't advocate for things that "thin" your skin. Honestly, I got a little miffed and decided to search to see if that's what people think of when they hear about these services. My first stop was this article that FIRST described this up and coming model who had treated herself to microdermabrasions and glycolic chemical peels that she thought would help her complexion but in return only made her skin condition worse. Alright, getting more upset when I went on to read their explanation that it is a service that is only recommended periodically...okay we're getting somewhere. So turns out that this lovely lady just didn't get the education on the service and how often she should receive this treatment, not her fault she just didn't know. So I returned to Ms. Hayek's article...why did she think this? Obviously, she has money and could go to professionals that would give her the best treatments and understanding. Oh wait....she's coming out with a skin care line...that's offered over-the-counter.

I'm not going to go into it because I'm sure we all understand the competitive market. However, it's misleading to make general statements without giving facts. Oh celebrities...they think they know everything.

So I'm here to dispel the rumors because, when used correctly microderm can be beneficial.
Microdermabrasion is technically a process used to physically exfoliate the outer layer of skin. This can be done with sodium.... Crystals suspended in creams or through a professional machine which uses the distributes crystals across the skin while a vacuum sucks up the crystals and dead skin cells simultaneously. I'll be speaking on behalf of the professional treatment. There are many forms of microderm, the machine is a crystal microderm while another variation is the diamond-tip microderm which has pieces of diamondlike elements imbeded into the metal head. It is applied on the surface of the skin and utilizes a vacuum as well to remove exfoliated skin cells. Should you suffer from hyperpigmentation, uneven skin texture, scars, lines wrinkles, or comedones- you could benefit from this treatment.

So technically what's happening is the exfoliation is sloughing off the dead cells of the strateum corneum which acts as a protective barrier but can accumulate too many cells and cause clogging of pores. The strateum corneum doesn't consist of just one single layer of cells but multiple should the cells hold tight to the surface and aren't removed. The term "abrasion" means "cut" so the micro cuts on the skin trigger the brain to stimulate a healing response and in return kick starts cell turnover.

A new army of cells are created in the basal layer (the lowest level closest to the epidermis) and pushes the older cells closer to the surface on average every 28 days. As we age this process takes longer. So the frequency of microderms when we are younger can be closer together but as we start to gain some wisdom, you would want to schedule them a little further out to ensure your skin doesn't receive any damage. You also want to make sure your skin is completely healed before getting another one. So where it seems like your skin is getting "thinner" it is, but only for short time and not as dramatic as you may think.

I can't personally tell every single person how long to wait because each skin is different but it's recommended to receive this treatment one to two times a month. One if you already have dry, sensitive skin and two if you are considered more of an oily skin type. Either way, this treatment stimulates cell turnover and also encourages blood flow to the skin which as we know has it's own benefits. It's suggested to have multiple performed in a series, not saying you have to come every week but drastic results don't come from just one treatment.

After the treatment you will want to keep your skin hydrated and SPF is even MORE important now that part of your barrier has been removed.

Should you receive a treatment from someone not experienced, too much skin can be exfoliated if the suction is too high or pressure to firm. You could also experience "striping" were some places were exfoliated to deep and some not enough, causing the looks of lines in the skin. This would only last a while but in the meantime it would look like scabs on your face. You would want to keep the skin moisturized and wear sunscreen religiously to prevent hyperpigmentation. Your skin will heal but it will take some time. So be sure to talk to your skin care professionals and make sure you're protecting yourself by going to spas/offices that perform a full consultation beforehand. If they aren't willing to educate you then they aren't worth your investment in time and money.

There are tons of before and after microdermabrasion pictures on the internet should you be interested in seeing more result. Anyone ever received a microdermabrasion before? Care to share?

 

 

It's Hot Outside and You Might Be Cool But...

Now that it's summer, our clients are outside more on vacation, with the kids, and are attending more activities outside. Because of this shift of environment, one of the concerns is how to avoid those pesky sunburns or how to get the best bronze look. Sunscreens are now flying off the shelves and your esthetician and other medical professionals are shaking their heads...if you only knew how much you needed these products all the time and not just in the summer! The Environmental Protection Agency  claims that 90% of signs of aging are caused by the UV rays emitted by the sun. So we all are being told about melanomas and the possibilities of skin cancer but not only that, the rays can make you look OLDER?! If cancer didn't scare some people, premature lines and wrinkles might.So what's going on the in market that people are buying sunscreen more now than ever, yet we are having more cases reported health challenges (check out the EPA link for more) caused by overexposure to the sun?

UVA & UVB Rays

This is a pretty great illustration of what's going on with the skin and UV. There are three types of rays that the sun emits- UVA, UVB, and UVC. UVA and UVB are the ones that affect us the most- UVC (Ultraviolet COOKING rays) are blocked by our ozone. This is pretty good for us considering we would be burned to a crisp, hence the "cooking". Now UVA, stands for Ultraviolet Aging rays...which you guessed it, causes us to age.  UVB stands for Ultraviolet Burning rays and can be associated with sunburns. The table shows a great view of which rays affect the areas of our skin. So UVB is the strongest because it has a shorter wavelength and works more superficially on the skin. UVA rays are longer wavelengths, penetrate deeper, but take longer to cause damage. Don't make the mistake by thinking that it doesn't do damage since you can't visibly see it...it's there..breaking down your collagen and elastin. GASP! Sunscreen can be used to help protect from both rays, it's just finding the right kind and ingredients.

 New FDA Sunscreen Regulations

With more and more melanoma cases and the sunscreen business is still so profitable, what's the problem? Apparently the marketing and packaging of these products have been misleading consumers and not giving clear instruction.
The changes that have been made are:

• final regulations that establish standards for testing the effectiveness of sunscreen products and require labeling that accurately reflects test results
• a proposed regulation that would limit the maximum SPF value on sunscreen labeling to “SPF 50+”
• a data request for safety and effectiveness information for sunscreen products formulated in certain dosage forms (e.g., sprays)
• a draft guidance for sunscreen manufacturers on how to test and label their products in light of these new measures

For more information from the FDA click here. 

To summarize, the FDA has made it so that a product that states that no matter what the SPF (sun protection factor) is that it has to be reapplied every two hours. It's also recognizing that any SPF over 50 is ineffective. They are also requiring that sunscreens have better testing before being released to the public. Any products that say "sunblock" is to be relabeled because these products do not block UV rays. Also,"water proof" or "sweat proof"  advertising no longer to be used because all sunscreens can be removed with water and/or sweat. Look for a BROAD SPECTRUM label, this signifies that it has gone through the adequate testing for protection from both UVA and UVB rays. 

It's recommended to use at least a shot glass full for the entire body.

Sunscreen Checklist

So are you choosing the correct products and protecting yourself?

• Is your sunscreen a broad-spectrum sunscreen?
• Are you using a minimum of SPF 15 on your face? 
• Are you reapplying every 2 hours?
• If your sensitive, are you using a physical sunscreen?
• If you are using a chemical sunscreen, are you applying at least 20-30 minutes before going out into the sun?
• Are you using a lotion cream? (Spray sunscreens have been the least effective and are going through more testing)
• Does your sunscreen not have any fragrances and perfumes? (these can actually cause pigmentation problems!)
• Are you wearing sunscreen every day?

If you can answer these questions and can reply with a "yes" then you are on your way to better health and beautiful skin!

Interested in more? Try another article here.

Make the Best Out of Your Waxing Sesh!

At work yesterday we held the first ever Skin Club meeting in which we held a waxing party! It was fun and nerve-wracking at the same time. You ever had to supervise students who are learning/practicing waxing? Don't get me wrong, body waxing may not be brain surgery....but when it comes to eyebrows...that is another thing! For some reason, it scares people but sometimes all you can do is follow instruction, be patient, and say a little prayer that the hair you want is gone but that an eyebrow is still present. But it was successful! No worries and everyone left with less hair and two eyebrows!
But I had quite a lot of fearful waxees! Never been waxed before, they wanted to have a good experience of course. I thought about my clients and thought I would share some tips to help relieve some pain as well as get the most put of your waxing session.

Pre-Appointment
Everyone and their mom knows that you need to exfoliate atleast 72 hours before your appointment. This is going to help prevent ingrown hairs but also help your waxing technician remove all of those little guys. You can prepare for your post wax by getting a good exfoliating product...more about that later.
If you are taking antibiotics, topical steroids, any retinoids, products with vitamin A- you will want to wait until you are off these medications to schedule your waxing appoinment. Exfoliating medications are a contradiction which can prevent your technician from waxing you. Antibiotics dry out the skin and could possibly cause your skin to lift or even remove skin should you get waxed. To know more about medications or contraindications talk to your esthetician.
Did you know there is a particular time to get waxed that could possibly help you stop hair growth altogether? When you get waxed for the first time, you've probably had that hair for quite some time.
There are three stages of hair growth and just like blades of grass, each hair may be at different stages. So initially when you remove, if it's removed from the root correctly then you will want to get waxed every week for 3-4 weeks to get all the hair in every stage. Afterwards, every four to six weeks when the hair is still in the antigen stage is going to be ideal to get a hair removal service. Hairs in the antigen stage are still connected to the blood supply, therefore when removing hair there is more of a chance of damaging the hair follicle. Sounds bad but it actually means that the follicle may not produce hair or will produce much finer hair. Woot woot!

At Your Appointment

If you are particularly sensitive, ask what options of wax they have. Obviously, your technician will know what's best but it's no harm to voice that you prone to pain. Should you be a candidate, you might be getting waxed with a hard wax (also known as a non-strip wax) because it does not adhere directly to the skin and sits on the surface. Strip wax has pressure applied to the muslin and in turn pressed into the skin.
Help your technician out by holding your skin taut. This will help the removal but also cause you less pain! Score!

Post Wax
You'll want to exfoliate atleast 72 hours after waxing. Invest in a good exfoliating product, while a physical exfoliant is good for every once in a while...go with a chemical exfoliant. Too much of a physical can cause more sensitivities and can beak a hair down the middle causing ingrown hairs. A product that I like is Tend Skin. It has alcohol which dries excess oil and kills germs and a low percentage of salicylic acid which exfoliates. It treats and prevents ingrown hairs and razor bumps. Read the instructions and use as directed.
And then reschedule for a waxing service! Hair removal isn't a walk in the park, it can hurt. If you continue to wax it will become less painful with each one but should you shave in between...just remember...the longer hair is in the follicle the more they want to stay inside their home! So keep it up! Finer or less hair is worth it!

Probiotics and the Skin: MyBody Skincare

This past week at the school I teach at, we had mybody come to speak to my Future Professionals about their medical grade skincare line. The ladies were excited and so was I to hear all the innovative things they had to share. This brand also intrigued me because they were only offered in medical offices or medspas. Their products would not be gracing the shelves of Ulta our Sephora. So as an esthetician, my ears perked up. What made this line medical grade? So the professional product they have is a type of "Probiotic Peel". This is the big bulk of their sales but isn't limited to just that but it's their bread and butter from what I gathered. So, the pitch went on to talk about these products using biomimcry (aka technology that mimics our biological processes) and that contain no gluten, no SLS, and contain no parabens. So okay...how does it work?

Well, the professional product contains a certain percentage of AHA's which exfoliate the skin and create a wound on the face where it's applied. Also within the product is a certain strain of lactobacillus which stimulates a healing response to help the results of the peel. I was somewhat intrigued and so I was curious to know how it worked on an even smaller level....so I had to do some research. So first of all, it's not labeled what type of bacteria is within the peel. It's only said that it is a type of lactobacillus derivitive that is nonliving but comes from a living bacteria. With that information, I was confused.

Aren't probiotics technically considered alive? So I tried doing my homework and found out that a derivative is actually a part of the once alive bacteria but with this, it can still stimulate the same response from our body. Meaning that it will still carry out the function because our body has still identified this object as a positive bacteria.

  Awesome, so what about probiotics make them good for the skin? Well probiotics are supposed to be good for our overall health. WebMD says, "The normal human digestive tract contains about 400 types of probiotic bacteria that reduce the growth of harmful bacteria and promote a healthy digestive system." For the skincare works, it's important to maintain all of our body systems because all of them effect the skin. More importantly, problems can manifest through challenges with our skin. Proper channels of removing waste are vital. Toxins and waste will be removed from our bodies any way they can...including through our pores. Breakouts and other disorders can occur because of this. So that's bueno for our skin. Eczema is said to be linked to malabsorption! Bingo, this can help by regulating our digestive track. Also, being able to decrease the amount of harmful bacteria is going to be beneficial. P. Acne, which causes acne, is a strain of bad bacteria that can be regulated by the good guys! The most popular of these boogers is Lactobacillus acidophilus. But then that got me thinking...

Are there any other types of probiotic that is good for skin? So technically, I could see how that could be beneficial for suffers of aneic skin...and the others? Well,there is another strain of probiotic called Lactobacillus Rhamnosus that is usually found in the digestive tract which helps heal the linings from acid corrosion. Pretty much stimulates the healing response within the epithelial cells--the intestinal lining is compromised of these cells which act as a covering. To relate to skincare, skin cells are a type of epithelial cell. Now back to the

Is Your Skin Care Regimen the Problem? FINALE

Toners, Fresheners, Astringent…oh my!

Toners are valuable to all skin types and one of the most forgotten steps in many regimens. Toners are meant to help remove excess product that may be on the surface of the skin. Also, they are used to help balance the pH of the skin. It is important for the skin’s functions to have the skin’s pH maintained at 4.5-5.5. But more on that later…

Fresheners are very beneficial to dry, prematurely aging, and aging skin. Fresheners do just that…freshen the skin. Delivering hydration to the skin and in return, helping strengthen the skin. 

Astringents are going to be best suited for oily skin types. Really, for excess oil production. Astringents will help remove the excess oil and dry the skin to allow other products to penetrate deeper into the layers of the skin. So this would be beneficial who have acneic skin too, however would not be great for dry skin types. Even those who experience a little oil, it may be too much for. 

Moisturizers and Your Skin

Moisturizers are important for every skin type. Oily skin types may try to avoid it but they really do need it. All skin types can experience dehydration (lack of water) and so finding the right product is important. The more oil your skin produces, the lighter the moisturizer you are going to need…and vice versa, the drier the skin the thicker the moisturizer needs to be. 

Whew! And finally! The regimen list is completed!

Questions? Comments? Concerns? 

I'm itching to write a research post on this product line that my class just experienced...so prepare yourselves, it's a doozy.