You Put WHAT On Your Face?!

I love researching and learning about new things in the beauty and skin industry and sharing what I learned with my class. I have a lot of students who bring articles to me and we have open discussions on what they have heard or read about. Recently, an article was left on my desk that literally made me squirm. It's title? "Too Slimy? Live, crawling snails used in Japanese facials" on the TODAY website.

So, I can't summarize this article any more than what the title describes! Although, this was recently presented to the public it's actually something that's been happening for a while now. (Actually, TODAY may be running out of beauty material because they have reported something similar in 2011.) Slime from snails are actually being utilized in skincare and cosmetics in other continents but are making it's way to the U.S. What's the deal with the slugs right? It's being reported that these snail's trails contain glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, and antioxidants. All of these have been used to keep these creatures healthy and their skin intact while they make their way over rocks and under heavy flower pots and such. Glycolic helps with the cell reproduction and stimulating a healing response. Hyaluronic acid actually holds 1000 times it's weight in moisture and can help keep the skin hydrated and plump. Finally, antioxidants help fight free radicals and can combat aging. Wonderful ingredients present! However, these ingredients might be more pleasant in another medium and can be found elsewhere. But the experience itself would be interesting.

Within the article I read about a mention of a "Nightingale feces facial"! Okay, you got my attention. So I set to google and got educated. Thus the Geisha Facial was introduced to me. Apparently, this too is linked to Japan where the geisha's were having trouble with breakouts after wearing that thick, white foundation. Somehow, it was found out that the droppings of a type of Nightingale were the cure! What was the appeal? Well, the excrement is said to be packed with tons of fruit enzymes ( because of the diet of the bird) and allowed the benefits of dissolving dead skin cells, helping unclog pores, and softening and smoothing the skin.  It also said that urea is found in the droppings which, if left on the skin, can moisturize the skin. Who would want to keep it on though? This treatment has been made popular here in the US in New York. You can check out the Shizuka Spa website to get one! No worries, this debris has been sterilized by UV before being ground up into a powder. And hey, Posh Spice raves about it but these enzymes can be found in other venues.

I thought these were TOO interesting to pass up writing about, so has anyone ever heard of these before or had one of these treatments done? Or would you be interested?

Here's a link to some other odd spa/salon treatments.

Are there any other strange skin treatments you've heard of? Love to hear any you might have, email at soskinsmart@gmail.com ! I know my class would enjoy as would I.

Microderm MANIA!

 

I read an article from a beauty box subscription newsletter where Selma Hayek was being
interviewed. I can't say that she is my beauty icon but she had mentioned Microdermabrasion which is a service offered at my place of business. You can find it here. So as I was reading, I was

kind of in shock that she was making a dig at chemical peels and poor little microdermabrasion...she doesn't advocate for things that "thin" your skin. Honestly, I got a little miffed and decided to search to see if that's what people think of when they hear about these services. My first stop was this article that FIRST described this up and coming model who had treated herself to microdermabrasions and glycolic chemical peels that she thought would help her complexion but in return only made her skin condition worse. Alright, getting more upset when I went on to read their explanation that it is a service that is only recommended periodically...okay we're getting somewhere. So turns out that this lovely lady just didn't get the education on the service and how often she should receive this treatment, not her fault she just didn't know. So I returned to Ms. Hayek's article...why did she think this? Obviously, she has money and could go to professionals that would give her the best treatments and understanding. Oh wait....she's coming out with a skin care line...that's offered over-the-counter.

I'm not going to go into it because I'm sure we all understand the competitive market. However, it's misleading to make general statements without giving facts. Oh celebrities...they think they know everything.

So I'm here to dispel the rumors because, when used correctly microderm can be beneficial.
Microdermabrasion is technically a process used to physically exfoliate the outer layer of skin. This can be done with sodium.... Crystals suspended in creams or through a professional machine which uses the distributes crystals across the skin while a vacuum sucks up the crystals and dead skin cells simultaneously. I'll be speaking on behalf of the professional treatment. There are many forms of microderm, the machine is a crystal microderm while another variation is the diamond-tip microderm which has pieces of diamondlike elements imbeded into the metal head. It is applied on the surface of the skin and utilizes a vacuum as well to remove exfoliated skin cells. Should you suffer from hyperpigmentation, uneven skin texture, scars, lines wrinkles, or comedones- you could benefit from this treatment.

So technically what's happening is the exfoliation is sloughing off the dead cells of the strateum corneum which acts as a protective barrier but can accumulate too many cells and cause clogging of pores. The strateum corneum doesn't consist of just one single layer of cells but multiple should the cells hold tight to the surface and aren't removed. The term "abrasion" means "cut" so the micro cuts on the skin trigger the brain to stimulate a healing response and in return kick starts cell turnover.

A new army of cells are created in the basal layer (the lowest level closest to the epidermis) and pushes the older cells closer to the surface on average every 28 days. As we age this process takes longer. So the frequency of microderms when we are younger can be closer together but as we start to gain some wisdom, you would want to schedule them a little further out to ensure your skin doesn't receive any damage. You also want to make sure your skin is completely healed before getting another one. So where it seems like your skin is getting "thinner" it is, but only for short time and not as dramatic as you may think.

I can't personally tell every single person how long to wait because each skin is different but it's recommended to receive this treatment one to two times a month. One if you already have dry, sensitive skin and two if you are considered more of an oily skin type. Either way, this treatment stimulates cell turnover and also encourages blood flow to the skin which as we know has it's own benefits. It's suggested to have multiple performed in a series, not saying you have to come every week but drastic results don't come from just one treatment.

After the treatment you will want to keep your skin hydrated and SPF is even MORE important now that part of your barrier has been removed.

Should you receive a treatment from someone not experienced, too much skin can be exfoliated if the suction is too high or pressure to firm. You could also experience "striping" were some places were exfoliated to deep and some not enough, causing the looks of lines in the skin. This would only last a while but in the meantime it would look like scabs on your face. You would want to keep the skin moisturized and wear sunscreen religiously to prevent hyperpigmentation. Your skin will heal but it will take some time. So be sure to talk to your skin care professionals and make sure you're protecting yourself by going to spas/offices that perform a full consultation beforehand. If they aren't willing to educate you then they aren't worth your investment in time and money.

There are tons of before and after microdermabrasion pictures on the internet should you be interested in seeing more result. Anyone ever received a microdermabrasion before? Care to share?

 

 

Professional Vs...Not.

Can you remember the last time that you were so sick that you had to go to the doctor?

The last time I had gone to the doctor, I had a sinus infection that I could not shake. It was miserable, not matter how many Tylenols I popped for the pain- it was bothering me. So, I had to gather all my energy and finally make an appointment. When I went in I waited about 45 minutes in the waiting area, got called back and sat in a very bare room, waited another 15 min for a nurse to come fill out my chart, nurse left and another 10 minutes passed until I saw my doctor. He asked me a few ho-hum questions and scribbled on a little tablet. And there it was...the answer to all my problems...a prescription to feel better! TADA!

No imagine that you are suffering from something a little less dramatic...sort of. Working in a spa, I've had many people present me with challenge after challenge. " I want to look 20 years younger. I want to clear up my skin. I want to get rid of the unwanted spots.." While I can do my darndest while you are on my table results come from 30% treatment and 70% at home care. Which means I will have to PRESCRIBE you product for maintenance and to look better! Think of your skin care professional as a doctor and their prescription as their take-home recommendations...if you want to see a change, you have to follow instruction. Not only that but if you're wanting to "get better", professional skin care products are going to do the job better than what you can get in the aisle of your convenience store (oh hey, kind of like your medication when you're sick!).


How can you tell the difference?
The difference between Over the Counter (OTC) and professional products are that professional products are sold at establishments in which a licensed esthetician or medical practitioner are located.  For you to be able to get the results you need and to get clear instruction it has to be so! Professional products have a higher amount and quality of ingredients designated for balancing out the skin and/or treating skin conditions. A lot of these professional products contain ingredients that could do some damage if not used correctly. OTC products can be sold by anyone, usually aren't recommended based on YOUR needs only what you think your needs are, and in the end can cost you more money for the results you want. Used correctly, your professional products will cost you less and with quicker results than the OTC messes.

And that's just professional product...don't make me show you pictures of crazy people doing professional grade treatments at home...seriously. Would you inject yourself with a vaccine? Probably not. Something could go wrong! You aren't the expert! So leave it to those who are! Plus, I don't think giving yourself a massage feels as good as getting one by a professional.

So needless to say, I'm an advocate for your local esthetician. Need one? Check out Spa Finder for day spas and medspas in your area. Sign up with their newsletter and they'll even send you info on SPA WEEK which is an amazing event where a gazillion spas offer discounted services! Who could pass that up? Even if you don't have a challenge...atleast you could go in for a wellness "check up".

I'll get off my little soapbox now...but what would you guys like to know? I'm open to some questions! If you aren't up to posting a comment feel free to email me at soskinsmart@gmail.com. Let's hear it!